SUMMA: my new wonderland

This year marked my first time at #SUMMA, and every detail of this enchanting event left an indelible mark on my wine-loving heart.

The Elegant Setting of Tenuta Lageder

Nestled within the serene natural landscape of Magrè, Tenuta Lageder provides a picturesque backdrop for #SUMMA. The venue, surrounded by majestic mountains, lush vineyards, and verdant apple-yards, feels like stepping into a timeless realm where every corner whispers tales of history and tradition. The elegance of Tenuta Lageder isn't just in its visual appeal but also in its embodiment of the rich heritage and the sustainable practices that define the region.

A Confluence of Top Producers

One of the highlights of #SUMMA was the exceptional lineup of producers. It was a wine enthusiast’s dream to find so many of my favourite producers gathered under one roof. This curated selection showcased the best in the industry, reflecting the event’s commitment to quality and excellence with a focus on sustainable practices as a mandatory requirement to take part in this event. From renowned names to hidden gems, the diversity and calibre of the wines presented were the perfect match for my wine taste and preference, as I’m always looking for genuine productions.

Comete Project

The tastings and masterclasses at #SUMMA were a testament to the event’s dedication to education and exploration. Among the standout experiences was the introduction to the Comete project, which emphasises pure experimentation in winemaking. Rooted in biodynamic principles, the project focuses on planting diverse grape varieties, employing minimal intervention in the cellar, and maintaining environmental sustainability. The wines produced are unique (like a Cometa aka Comet) and expressive, often limited in quantity, and have garnered significant attention for their quality and distinctiveness. Some of the varieties used are Fraueler e Versoaln, Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Vernatsch (Schiava). I personally appreciated MUS · XXIII, which is a Pet Nat made by Moscato Giallo (55%), Tannat (25%) e Souvignier Gris (20%). Fighting against climate change, 40 years ago, Rainer Zierock and Alois Lageder, aware that the climate could have become too hot for many grape varieties in Alto Adige in the future, they conducted field trials with grape varieties from southern regions. The result is TIK TIK, the latest assembled with two vintages 2021 and 2022, two opposite years from a climatic point of view: 2021 was a cool vintage with late ripening and a low pH value, while 2022 was a very warm with low acidity. A fascinating interaction.

By pushing the boundaries of traditional winemaking, the Comete Project inspires and influences the future of the industry.

Vertical tasting of Lowengang

One of the most memorable moments was the vertical tasting of Lowengang, spanning vintages back to 1990. This journey through time highlighted the wine’s remarkable ability to retain its youth and freshness, even in its oldest expressions. It was a powerful reminder of the timeless nature of great wine, capable of evolving while maintaining its core characteristics.

Starting with the first vintage in 1984, the wine initially struggled with a lack of structure. To address this, the decision was made to cut down half of the grape harvest, which led to significant improvements in quality, despite the challenge of labour shortages. Angelo Gaio, a good friend and an influential figure, suggested fermenting the juice and ageing it in barrels, which intensified the impact of the wood on the wine.

Improvements in vineyard management were evident, but cellar practices remained largely unchanged until Jo Pfisterer arrived and began making substantial changes. This led to a period of intense experimentation, with 200 to 300 new trials each year. 

Climate change posed challenges, particularly for certain varieties, though Chardonnay adapted relatively well. During the early years, access to analytical tools was limited compared to today.

By the 1990 vintage, several vineyards were blended together, showcasing the diverse terroir and microclimate. Tasting notes from this period describe the wine as golden and clear, with strong wood influence and a prevailing minerality, though freshness and acidity were well preserved. 

The 1992 vintage saw a reduction in wood presence, with a shift towards more pronounced minerality and freshness, resulting in a pleasing, persistent salivation. In contrast, the 2006 vintage had a more intense yellow-gold colour with a slightly floral nose and more complex aromas, reflecting cooler August temperatures and a warmer September.

By 2014, the wine, now certified Demeter, displayed an intense yellow-gold colour with mineral notes. Oxygenation revealed a pronounced acidic fruitiness, reminiscent of pineapple. The 2015 vintage retained hints of pineapple, with a slight unique aroma and a consistent freshness and salinity. 

The 2021 vintage, noted for its minerality, is one to try. An Inedito blend of 2013, 2014, and 2015 vintages features a significant density and a fresh nose. This blend, which underwent continuous fermentation with no added sweetness, resulted in 25,000 bottles of a wine that combines mature yet acidic fruit notes with a method perpetuo.

Thematic Cohesion: Quality, Ecosystem, and Responsibility

The underlying theme that bound the entire event together was a deep respect for high-quality wines, the ecosystems in which they are produced, and the social responsibility of the winemakers. This ethos was vividly brought to life in the presentation of Adriano Zago’s latest book and the accompanying tasting with Agricola Foradori, Salicutti, 1701 Franciacorta, and Villa Venti wines. Hearing the stories, ideals, and commitments of these producers, and then tasting their wines, was an enlightening experience. It underscored the importance of sustainable practices and the profound connection between the land, the producer, and the final product in the glass.

As I reflect on my first #SUMMA, I am filled with anticipation for the next edition. The event not only deepened my appreciation for fine wines but also reinforced the significance of sustainable practices and social responsibility in the world of winemaking.

Until next time, #SUMMA!