Sipping through Japan: a journey into Sake, Shochu, Wine, and Izakaya culture
- Alice Vanni
- 3 apr
- Tempo di lettura: 7 min
Embarking on a journey through Japan’s diverse regions—Tokyo, Kanazawa, Kagaonsen, Kyoto, Ohara, Kobe, and Osaka—offered an immersive exploration into the nation’s classic and modern art, rich tapestry of food mastering and beverages. From the renowned sake, to the traditional shochu, the discovery of wine, to the tea ceremonies and the izakaya meals, I delved into their histories, production nuances, and the unique ingredients that define their distinct profiles.
Sake: Japan’s quintessential brew
Sake, a fermented rice beverage, has been integral to Japanese culture for over a millennium. Its production involves a meticulous process where rice, water, yeast, and koji mold harmonise to create this iconic drink. In December 2024, UNESCO recognised traditional Japanese sake-making as an Intangible Cultural Heritage, highlighting its profound cultural significance.
Kyoto’s Fushimi district stands as a testament to Japan’s enduring sake heritage, hosting over 30 breweries that have perfected their craft over centuries. During my visit, I had the privilege of engaging deeply with this tradition by participating in the brewing process at a local Kyoto brewery. But I will tell about it after. First let's focus on one crucial part for the sake making: the water quality. It is paramount in sake production, profoundly influencing its flavour and purity. Fushimi’s renowned soft water, sourced from underground springs, imparts a gentle and smooth character to its sakes. This contrasts with regions like Nada, where harder water yields a more robust flavour profile.
Exploring regional variations, I tasted sakes from both Kaga and Kyoto:
• Kagatobi from Kaga: Produced by Fukumitsuya Sake Brewery, Kagatobi is named after the in-house firefighters of the Kaga domain’s Edo branch, known for their strength and skill. This junmai daiginjo sake features a delicate taste, a rich ginjo aroma, and a light body that resonates harmoniously. Brewed using Yamada Nishiki rice polished to 40%, it showcases the brewery’s advanced Yamahai brewing method. I haven’t had the opportunity to visit it, still tasting it was a lovely discovery.
• Kyoto’s Sake: Characterised by its delicate and refined flavours, Kyoto’s sake benefits from the area’s soft water, resulting in a smoother taste profile. The Fushimi district, in particular, is renowned for producing sakes with a gentle and mellow character.
One of the highlights of my trip was visiting a sake brewery in Kyoto, where I participated in the production process. Waking up at 6 AM to witness and engage in sake-making was an unforgettable experience. From steaming the rice to observing the meticulous koji fermentation process, the immersive nature of the visit deepened my appreciation for the craftsmanship behind each bottle. The final tasting session allowed me to savor the nuanced differences in sake styles, reinforcing the importance of technique and ingredients.
Shochu: Japan’s versatile spirit
Shochu, a distilled spirit with roots tracing back centuries, holds a special place in Japan’s southern regions, particularly Kyushu and Okinawa. Unlike sake, shochu can be crafted from various ingredients, each imparting distinct flavours and characteristics. Some of the most common shochu varieties include:
- Sweet Potato (Imo Shochu) – Primarily produced in Kagoshima Prefecture, this type has a rich, earthy, and slightly sweet taste. - Barley (Mugi Shochu) – Originating from Oita Prefecture, barley-based shochu has a nutty, mild flavour, often lighter than other varieties. - Rice (Kome Shochu) – Common in Kumamoto and Niigata, rice shochu is delicate and smooth, similar to sake but with a stronger alcoholic kick.- Buckwheat (Soba Shochu) – Found mainly in Miyazaki Prefecture, this variety has a light, slightly nutty taste. - Brown Sugar (Kokuto Shochu) – A specialty of Amami Islands, made from brown sugar and rice malt, giving it a lightly sweet yet crisp profile.
In Osaka, I had the opportunity to sample two sweet potato-based shochu:
• Dayame by Hamada Syuzou: This shochu captivated with its aromatic lychee notes, offering a smooth and nuanced tasting experience. Hamada Syuzou, located in Kagoshima Prefecture, is renowned for producing high-quality sweet potato shochu that showcases the rich flavors of the region’s produce.
• Yasuda Shochu: Similarly, this variant presented a delightful lychee fragrance, highlighting the versatility of sweet potato as a base ingredient. Enjoying these shochus mixed with soda created a refreshing and balanced drink, a popular way to appreciate shochu’s complex flavours.
Wine: Japan’s emerging viticulture
While Japan’s winemaking history is relatively recent compared to its longstanding traditions of sake and shochu, the country has made significant strides in cultivating grape varieties suited to its unique climate. Yamanashi Prefecture, in particular, has emerged as a hub for Japanese wine production, fostering both indigenous and international grape varieties. In Yamanashi Prefecture, I encountered a wine made from the indigenous Muscat Bailey A grape produced by Les Vins Vivant.
This particular wine, naturally fermented and with an alcohol content of 8.5%, was fresh and light, delivering delightful fruity notes both on the nose and the palate. It was a surprising and pleasant discovery, highlighting the potential of Japan's native grape varieties. Les Vins Vivants is a winery located in Nagano Prefecture, Japan, operated by Takahiro and Tomoko Ogino. The winery focuses on natural winemaking practices, producing wines without added sulphites, chaptalisation, or acidification, and refraining from fining. I really hope to have the opportunity to visit them on my next trip.
Curiosities on Muscat Bailey A
Muscat Bailey A is a hybrid grape variety developed in Japan in the early 20th century. It was created by Zenbei Kawakami, a pioneering Japanese viticulturist, who sought to produce grapes that could thrive in Japan’s humid climate. In 1927, he crossed Muscat Hamburg (known for its aromatic qualities) with Bailey, an American hybrid, to create a grape that was both resistant to disease and capable of producing quality wine.Over the decades, Muscat Bailey A has become Japan’s most widely planted red grape variety and was officially recognised in 2013 as a "Koshu OIV-registered grape," marking its importance in Japanese winemaking.
Izakaya: the heartbeat of Japanese social dining
The term izakaya combines “i” (to stay) and “sakaya” (sake shop), reflecting its origins as a place where patrons could sit and enjoy sake on-site. Emerging during the Edo period (1603–1867), these establishments evolved from simple sake shops offering drinks to venues serving a variety of foods alongside beverages, fostering a communal dining experience.
Izakayas are informal pubs where friends, colleagues, and even strangers gather to unwind, share food, and enjoy drinks. The atmosphere is typically lively and welcoming, characterized by the warm glow of red paper lanterns (akachōchin) adorning the entrances.
Throughout my journey, I visited various izakayas, each offering a unique glimpse into local customs and flavours. In Kyoto I had a beautiful experience for an izakaya meal for breakfast paired with a tasting of teas. In Osaka, I experienced the city’s renowned hospitality and sampled regional specialties like takoyaki (octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (savory pancakes) in street food market izakaya settings. These cities provided an authentic taste of local life and culinary traditions.
The Japanese Tea Ceremony: a harmonious tradition
The Japanese tea ceremony, known as sadō (the way of tea), is a revered cultural practice that embodies harmony, respect, purity, and tranquility. Its origins trace back to the 9th century when the Buddhist monk Eichū introduced tea to Japan after returning from China. The practice evolved significantly during the 12th century with the introduction of powdered green tea (matcha). Initially used in religious rituals within Buddhist monasteries, matcha gained prominence among the samurai class and, eventually, the broader populace. By the 16th century, tea master Sen no Rikyū refined the ceremony, emphasising simplicity and spiritual depth, principles that continue to influence the practice today.
Participating in a traditional tea ceremony is an immersive experience that transcends the act of drinking tea. It is a choreographed ritual where the host meticulously prepares matcha for guests in a serene setting, often a tatami-matted room designed to foster contemplation and aesthetic appreciation. Every aspect, from the selection of utensils to the arrangement of the room, reflects the host’s mindfulness and the season’s essence. The ceremony embodies the Japanese concept of omotenashi, wholehearted hospitality, creating a moment of connection and respect between host and guest.
During my stay in Kyoto, I had the privilege of attending a traditional tea ceremony in the historic Higashiyama district. The host, adorned in a simple kimono, guided us through the ritual with grace and precision. As we knelt on the tatami floor, the tranquil atmosphere allowed us to appreciate the subtle movements and the profound attention to detail involved in the preparation and serving of the matcha. This experience offered a profound insight into the cultural significance of tea in Japan and the meditative qualities embedded in its ceremonial practice.
Japan’s tea culture is rich and varied, with each type offering unique flavours, aromas, and health benefits. Here are some of the most prominent varieties:
• Matcha: A finely ground powdered green tea, matcha is central to the tea ceremony and is celebrated for its vibrant color and umami-rich flavor. The shading process before harvest increases chlorophyll content, enhancing its nutritional profile.
• Sencha: As the most commonly consumed tea in Japan, sencha is a steamed green tea known for its refreshing taste and balance of sweetness and astringency. It is typically enjoyed hot or cold throughout the day.
• Gyokuro: This premium green tea is shaded for a longer period than sencha, resulting in a sweeter, more full-bodied flavour with a distinctive umami taste. Gyokuro leaves are rich green and produce a pale green infusion.
• Hojicha: Made by roasting sencha or bancha leaves, hojicha has a reddish-brown hue and a toasty, caramel-like flavour. Its roasting process reduces caffeine content, making it a popular evening beverage.
• Genmaicha: A blend of green tea and roasted brown rice, genmaicha offers a nutty flavour and a warm, comforting aroma. Historically known as “people’s tea,” it was consumed by those seeking to stretch their tea supply.
Each of these teas reflects regional characteristics and traditional practices, contributing to the depth and diversity of Japan’s tea culture.
Integrating the exploration of Japanese tea and the tea ceremony into my journey enriched my understanding of Japan’s cultural heritage. The meticulous preparation, the emphasis on aesthetics, and the underlying philosophy of harmony and respect inherent in the tea ceremony provided a profound appreciation for this timeless tradition.
Speakeasy bars in Japan: hidden gems of the nightlife scene
Last but not least, Japan is renowned for its refined drinking culture, and in recent years, speakeasy bars have become a major part of the nightlife scene in cities like Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe. Inspired by the Prohibition-era hidden bars of the U.S., Japanese speakeasies offer a blend of exclusivity, masterful mixology, and a touch of mystery.Unlike mainstream bars, these hidden establishments often require a keen eye to find—some are tucked behind unmarked doors, disguised as ordinary storefronts, or even require secret passwords for entry. Inside, they offer intimate settings, inventive cocktails, and a deep respect for hospitality (omotenashi).
This journey through Japan’s diverse alcoholic beverages illuminated the intricate craftsmanship and regional nuances that define sake, shochu, and wine. Each tasting experience offered a deeper appreciation for the traditions and innovations shaping Japan’s dynamic beverage landscape. Whether participating hands-on in Kyoto’s sake brewing, savouring the aromatic complexities of Osaka’s shochu, or discovering the burgeoning wine culture in Yamanashi and Nagano, the exploration was both enlightening and palate-enriching.
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