SUMMA 2025: a return to the enchanted garden of wine and ideas

From volcanic terroirs to Lebanese legends, a personal journey through Summa 2025’s tastings, conversations, and evolving vision.

source: SUMMA

Last year, I described Summa as a kind of my "Wonderland”, a place where curiosity, experimentation, and beauty collide under the South Tyrolean sun. This year, returning to the 26th edition of Summa felt like stepping back into that enchanted garden, only to find it more vibrant, more purposeful, and more connected than ever.

Held at the historic Alois Lageder estate in Magrè, Summa 2025 brought together 2,400 visitors from 44 countries, 112 wineries from 8 nations, and a shared commitment to sustainability and community.

The Comete project: pushing the boundaries of wine and sustainability

The Comete Project by Alois Lageder stands as a testament to the winery's commitment to innovation, sustainability, and the exploration of new frontiers in winemaking. Established as a platform for experimental wines, Comete allows the team to venture beyond traditional boundaries, creating unique blends and techniques that reflect both creativity and a deep respect for the environment.​

As highlighted in my previous post, "SUMMA: my new wonderland" the Comete Project is not merely about crafting wines for the market; it's about conducting research to address climate change and other pressing issues in viticulture. The project's ethos focus on experimentation, with each wine and its grape variates serving as a case study in adaptation and innovation.​

At Summa 2025, Clemens Lageder led a tasting session where he fostered a dialogue with industry professionals, encouraging feedback on the project's evolution and the experimental wines showcased. This approach underscores the project's commitment to continuous learning and adaptation, ensuring that each iteration brings valuable insights to the forefront.​

The wines presented during the tasting session exemplified the project's diverse and innovative spirit. To mention some: MUS · XXIII, PRE CHA XXIII, LUI · XXI, BLA BLA BLA BLA, LE PO · XXII, BRO · XXIII.

Each of these wines embodies the spirit of the Comete Project, innovative, thoughtful, and deeply connected to the land and its future. The ongoing dialogue between the Lageder family and the wine community ensures that the project remains at the forefront of sustainable and experimental winemaking.

Federico Graziani: from sommelier to custodian of Etna’s heritage

Federico Graziani’s journey from sommelier to winemaker is a testament to his deep connection with the land and a relentless pursuit of authenticity. His venture into winemaking began after years of honing his palate and understanding of wines as a sommelier. In 2010, he established his winery, focusing on producing wines that reflect the unique terroir of Mount Etna.​ The winery is situated on the northern slopes, in the Contrada Feudo di Mezzo area of Passopisciaro, within the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia. The vineyards are planted at an altitude of approximately 600 meters above sea level, benefiting from a significant diurnal temperature variation of around 25°C. This unique microclimate allows for a longer maturation period, enhancing the complexity and depth of the wines.​

The vineyards are cultivated using traditional methods, with an emphasis on sustainability and biodiversity. The soil composition, rich in volcanic ash and minerals, imparts distinctive characteristics to the grapes, contributing to the wines' unique profiles.​

At Summa 2025, a vertical tasting of Federico Graziani’s flagship wine, Profumo di Vulcano, offered a profound insight into the evolution of his winemaking philosophy. The tasting commenced with the 2013 vintage, showcasing a wine characterised by its lightness and freshness, with delicate tannins that provided a graceful structure.​

The 2014 vintage, described by Federico as the "youngest" in his collection, exhibited a more robust character. The wine was marked by a "chalky" tannin.​

Moving to the 2016 vintage, Federico referred to it as the "perfect vintage." This wine displayed exceptional balance and softness, with clean, persistent flavours and soft tannins that highlighted the harmony with the terroir.​

The 2019 vintage stood out as Federico’s personal favourite. This wine revealed a vibrant expression of fruit, particularly notes of lemon zest and orange, complemented by round tannins. The wine was characterised by its depth and harmony, reflecting the culmination of years of meticulous vineyard management and winemaking expertise.​

Finally, the 2022 vintage, a warm vintage, produced a wine of length and elegance. The wine's refined structure and nuanced flavours were a testament to Federico's consistent approach to winemaking, maintaining the integrity of the vineyard's expression despite climatic variations.​

Federico's winemaking philosophy is rooted in a profound respect for the land and its history. His approach combines traditional techniques with a modern understanding of viticulture, allowing him to produce wines that are both authentic and innovative. The evolution of his wines over the years reflects a deepening connection to the land and a commitment to expressing its unique characteristics.​

Last but not least, I'm still reading the publication which Federico made in collaboration with Bromio, "Gen Z" brought together ten under-30 professionals from across the wine world for a residency in Montelaguardia, on the slopes of Mount Etna—Graziani’s home turf. The gathering took place on June 3, 2024, within the very vineyards that define Graziani’s wines. This wasn’t just a meeting, but a generational handshake—an open conversation around the future of wine and the wine of the future. The contributors are voices of the next wave. Their essays, reflections, and provocations are as much about sustainability and innovation as they are about identity, community, communication, and responsibility in a rapidly evolving industry. Reading Gen Z is like eavesdropping on a passionate roundtable under the Etna sun: the concerns are urgent, the ideas fresh, and the tone curious, bold, and deeply rooted in respect for wine as a cultural act. What Federico offers here, beyond his wines, is a space for listening, for learning, and for imagining what’s next.

This publication feels like a natural extension of his winemaking: thoughtful, experimental, grounded, and generous. Just as his wines carry the minerality and memory of volcanic soils, Gen Z carries the sparks of tomorrow. And as I turn its pages, I can’t help but feel a certain optimism—there’s a whole new generation growing into their roots, and Graziani is right there with them, guiding yet listening.

Chateau Musar: a lebanese legacy

​As someone with an academic background in Arab studies and a deep appreciation for the Arabic language and poetry, encountering a Lebanese producer at Summa was a moment of profound connection. Château Musar, with its rich history and unique approach to winemaking, stands as a testament to Lebanon's enduring vinicultural heritage.​

Established in 1930 by Gaston Hochar in Ghazir, Lebanon, Château Musar has become an emblem of Lebanese winemaking. The winery's vineyards are situated in the Bekaa Valley, a region with a viticultural history spanning over 6,000 years. At altitudes exceeding 1,000 meters, the valley offers a unique terroir characterised by gravelly soils over limestone, abundant sunshine, and a climate conducive to organic farming. ​

Château Musar's commitment to natural winemaking is evident in its practices: hand-harvesting by local Bedouins, fermentation with ambient yeasts, minimal use of sulfur, and no fining or filtration. This non-interventionist philosophy allows the wines to express the true character of their terroir. 

The red wines of Château Musar are typically blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, and Carignan, sourced from mature, low-yielding vines. The white wines are crafted from indigenous Lebanese varieties, Obaideh and Merwah, grown at higher elevations. These whites are known for their oxidative style and remarkable aging potential. ​

At Summa, I had the privilege of participating in a vertical tasting of Château Musar's red wines, focusing on the 2015, 2003, and 2000 vintages.​

• 2015: This vintage presented a vibrant ruby hue with garnet reflections. The nose offered delicate red cherry fruit, herbs, spices, and subtle floral nuances. On the palate, it was juicy and elegant, featuring fine tannins and a mineral-laden finish with hints of redcurrant and salty nuances.

• 2003: Displaying a deep ruby color, the 2003 vintage revealed complex aromas of toasted bread, plums, and spices. The palate was intense, with mature fruits like figs and cherries, complemented by notes of tea leaves and dark chocolate. This vintage was noted for its full-bodied nature and great length. ​

• 2000: The 2000 vintage exhibited balance between sweet spice and dried fruit notes with hints of leather, tobacco. On the palate, it was well-structured, with flavours of blackcurrant, spice, and a touch of game, leading to a long, harmonious finish.​

These vintages exemplify Château Musar's dedication to producing wines that are not only reflective of their unique terroir but also capable of aging gracefully, offering complexity and depth over time.​

When I was looking for more information on the history o the company, I read a beautiful quote from Serge Hochar:

"the harmony of nature is better than anything we could ever create, I believe it should be a priority to try to drink what is true rather than what is good"

This made the whole experience even more beautiful and I can't wait to go visiting the winery.

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As the sun set on another unforgettable edition of Summa, what lingered wasn’t just the scent of wine or the taste of rare vintages—it was the unmistakable energy of a community rooted in purpose.

Summa is more than a wine event. It’s a movement. An intimate celebration of craftsmanship, sustainability, curiosity, and culture, all taking place in the serene, story-filled courtyard of Alois Lageder’s estate in Magrè.

What makes Summa truly unique is its atmosphere: it doesn’t strive for spectacle, but for substance. It's not a marketplace, it’s a conversation. A quiet revolution led not by trends, but by values. And at the heart of it all is the Lageder family, with Helena and Clemens carrying forward a legacy that feels both deeply ancestral and strikingly forward-looking. Their commitment to biodynamics, to artistic and social engagement, and to creating a space for dialogue, not just commerce, is palpable in every detail, from the wines poured to the flowers hand-folded.

Summa isn’t about excess. It’s about essence. And in that, it stands alone.

Until next SUMMA! If you like the article, like it and share it!